If the Star at Wenhaston was tucked deep in the secluded Suffolk countryside, well baby I just ain't seen n... n... nothing yet (not a direct quote from my local chauffeur, Steve) as we ventured further to Laxfield, which somehow boasts two pubs, a Co-op and a museum. How was this possible?? No bus or train within like, a million miles at a rough estimate.
Our next pub was tucked down the side of a church wall, this was England at its most idyllic .....
An ancient thatched gem with a reassuringly unspoilt interior, King's Head (Low House), Laxfield (2537 / 4432) is the destination pub to end all destination pubs, a community owned jewel in the crown, no naughty Adnams, this isn't for you anymore! That's the official line anyway. Because I'm going to upset you all here by telling you that I personally enjoyed it the least out of today's pubs, although that says a lot about the quality of the other five. The front snug is being occupied by a group of long hairy eared men. There is no bar, so Steve takes us to the back taproom where a young lad he knows is dispensing ales in that gravitational pull kinda way, very sci-fi. He admits mine is very new on, and sadly it does taste a bit 'green' if you know what I mean (no, I didn't drop my Stablio in it - that joke is as funny now as it was on Twitter at the time AKA not very). The tight interior is split into atmospheric small rooms and snugs separated by corridors, I know that's part of the charm, but it means it is very hard to get a 'sense' of the pub ... who is here, what's the vibe, what's cracking off? how many folk in? A trip to the obviously outdoor loos helps me find a leafy sun-kissed garden, Sunday roasts galore being doled out to the masses. We've found a small side room which is perfect until the hairy eared ancients are relocated here for their dinner. All a bit squashy. So whilst I'd accept this is a must visit for anypub lover, the experience left me a little bit flat.
Back in the Steve-mobile. Now I wouldn't say Rumburgh was 'civilisation' but it was a darn sight closer to it than Laxfield. Time for pub three.
2017 since it's last GBG showing, 22 appearances overall, we have Jim's spreadsheet to thank for the stats that matter like this. But colour me surprised, it felt like it must be in every year. Buck, Rumburgh (2538 / 4433) was a return to red, wooden homely feeling I'd found at Wenhaston's Star earlier - albeit this place was larger, more sweeping, less full of ornate quirky junk, but the welcome was equally warm. It was here where I had to remember to say hi to 'Wicked Stepmother Elaine' .... only 'wicked' in the mid-late 90's awesome, coolio, sorted for e's and whizz sort of way. Not that she was on drugs. Probably. Well, not party drugs. I'll have to tell you all about the time some strangers gave me poppers at L**ds festival, that was weird, glad I'd not had a Sussex Best before. Anyway I digress, with the Mr Winter going down the hatch more like a Mr Summer, I took a trip to the loo where I stumbled upon an old man drinking Guinness and labouring over a giant plate of new potatoes. Well, Steve notices him too and goes over to have a word because he's supposed to be a regular at Steve's pub which we are going to next, so he got a good ole interrogation for being a traitor. Well, not really. Another beautiful pub this, rural NE Suffolk really is a winner, just don't stare too long at that bloke's shirt or you might get a headache like Col did.
So it was time for the piece de resistance, saving the best til last, that'd be Steve's view and I'm sticking with it ......
The sun is shining, and there's a little folk band fiddling away in front of a healthy crowd as we step out of the car at the Racehorse Inn, Westhall (2539 / 4434) , more community owned quality with a nice shallow central bar, lots of ale, and a few rooms dotted off in each direction. Everyone is so smiley, I take the plaudits like a ticking legend, but more likely it is aimed that their returning hero Steve. The Ampersand is drinking well, as Steve introduces me to some of the local legends like Norris and a cerebral young lad who chats at length about pigment - not sure how we got onto that subject but it was pint four. Steve then gives me a little tour of the lovely cool cellar, and back garden area - definitely onto a good thing here! Predicting now, it'll be one of the magic 4,500 in the GBG I complete in approx 2043. And just when I didn't think the feel good factor could go any more through the roof, the chef Johnny brings me a roast beef & horseradish roll to take away for the road - on the house. More on that tomorrow as I tackle in pub six! But for now, cheers to Steve for a crackin' 4 pub epic as he drops me back in Beccles. My five days in Norfolk / Suffolk really peaked here on day two.
Toe Update (cos I know you care) - I didn't feel it at all during my day in Lincs on Saturday, but then again I was being driven about, AND I had a XXXB in one pub. But then on Sunday, I walked up to Sainsbury's in my trainers instead of my walking boots which I've been wearing cos they are the only pair roomy enough to fit my swollen left foot, and it was killin' me all Sunday night, so whilst it is on the mend, I'm not recovered yet.
Thanks for reading, we'll tackle Beccles and Diss tomorrow.
Si
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