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  • Writer's pictureSi Everitt

BRAPA in .... THE NORFOLK COUNTDOWN : PART 6/6 - PROMOTION + BONUS BRIEF MONTH END REVIEW

Good evening.


Here we are at last, my favourite five pubs of my epic 36 tick week in Norfolk recently. I wish I'd thought about this countdown style sooner, has been a joy to write them up in this format. Next time I go on a holiday, I'm definitely going to do it again.


So let's see which pubs made me happiest, and why.


5. Hop In, North Walsham


"Are you the Hop In?" I ask, the door creaking open on a squally midweek evening slap bang in the wilds of Norfolk, wind blowing the rusty, creaky but totally imaginary inn sign. Ideally, they'd have said 'welcome traveller' in a theatrical dungeon master kind of way, but I had to make do with 'yes we oarrreee' in a cacophony of Norfolk accents, the emphasis on 'cac'. I only visited two Micropubs this week, but this was easily the more unique. A bit poky if you are being cruel, I'd rather 'bags of atmosphere and character'. Only THREE tables, and the steepest of stairs up to the narrowest of bogs, like a mini version of Central London meets Wetherspoons, in a wholesome hobbity kind of way. Damson Porter comes from the barrel, and I love the landlady, so welcoming and homely, she wouldn't look out of place knitting jumpers for pet otters. Good staff often set the tone in micros, and her regulars are equally kind. Norfolk inclusivity isn't something I'd witnessed much of, so I didn't take it for granted like I had in, say, Gwent last October, where everyone had been engaging. Orange Kit Kat or Aero? Seemed almost compulsory with your pint, a couple sit with me, they have pork scratchings in a half glass. They think doing the GBG is a great but crazy hobby. Not sure I asked, but never mind. I left with a beaming smile on my face. That's all I want.



4. Shoulder of Mutton, Strumpshaw


'Twixt two rural train stations, but not particularly close to either (despite the GBG's best efforts of encouragement), this was my first ever Norfolk pub outside of Norwich. It is a rarity to find a pub trying to be 'everything to everyone' actually succeeding at it, normally at least one part gets diluted. But here I found a place pulling together to be the absolute best of all worlds, a fluffy haired boy waxes lyrical on their new 'Frisky Legs' ale from Moon Gazer, a murky delight, whilst Mum and Grandma pull it through with a grin and a chuckle. There's plenty of dining going on, and quite a high class clientele, but ultimately this was a pub. A wood burner bubbles away in the centre of the room, there are darts, blind sooty and traditional pub games. The table I'm sat at looks like a museum piece. The posh couple behind me are thwarted by a lack of mussels, but their highbrow chat over 'learned behaviour' and Austrian culture meant I felt, kinda harshly, that they'd brought it on themselves. "Compliments to the chef!" screams an American lass at the end of her meal. The pub cringes as one. My cue to leave.





3. New Entertainer, Gorleston


Once I eventually found my way inside (tickers top tip - the door saying 'entrance' is always a good idea in such circumstances), I realised that I was somewhere quite special. All three Gorleston ticks delivered, but this was the best. About eight locals were huddled around one small corner of the bar, forming a sort of Norfolk centipede, and I thought 'ey up, 'ere we go again' but they turn and smile! The friendliest one sounded Irish, he had strong views on Yorkshire Tea. Although my memory of the details are hazy, I have what they call in modern parlance 'banter' with the barmaid. Genuine, warm and funny. And that's just me. Kidding of course. Or am I? The ale from Mighty Oak was better than the stuff I'd had at their own brewery tap on Maldon Essex. The place smelt of nicotine, like my grandparents old place in filthy L**ds, and the place took on an almost WMC feel with low roof, expansive plush benches and long sweeping interior. I guess this is what they call a hidden gem.



2. Red Lion Hotel, Cromer


That sign seems about right. This place was down the narrow colourful streets of Cromer, tucked away on a corner, with great views out to the North Sea, or Hull if you crane your neck at a special angle. It was an absolute beauty. Bar blockers part to let me see the ales, and I ask them if drinking a 6.5% Black Flint Poppyland is acceptable at this time. Although their attitude is a grunting 'do what ya like mate', any Norfolk interaction which isn't abuse puts you in a better frame of mind. There's a soothing atmosphere in this unpretentious bare boarded classic, fire in the centre, but most people blinking out to sea. But not in that usual lugubrious Norfolk way, no they are a sociable bunch, I'm overhearing strangers striking up conversation right across the bench. I think perhaps because they are visitors from across the land. An old lady is interrogating a ticker/nerd of some description about what he's up to, and I can't help thinking 'this should be me' but I'm perched beside the door, my face resting on some wood panelling, so I'm a bit out on a limb. The pub must know it is a bit special, cos it has merchandise in glass cabinets in the hallway. Normally a jarring pub trait, it isn't here. In fact, a barmaid spies me photographing a Red Lion Teddy, 'cute isn't he?' she comments. Colin didn't agree. Great pub this.



1. Fat Cat, Norwich


Tuesday 14th February was Valentine's Day, and I certainly fell in love with the first pub I visited today as I wait for Daddy BRAPA to arrive for some pre-match Norwich v Hull City ticking. It was only just gone noon when I arrive, but the place was heaving with random old blokes dotted about, not to mention some sort of oldies reunion party in the corner. In fact, a taxi had just dropped off a walking stick bloke as I approached and I had to give him a gentle elbow to ensure I was at the bar first. A drinkers pub though, no food in sight, everyone on the ale. I've long since suspected that if pubs are good enough, like really good, then wet-led ones actually CAN make a go of it. Rare, but I see it. And this place was barely central, a good 15-20 minute stride out of town. The ale is Fat Cat Meow Mild, good news on a day where I was worried about my overall consumption more than any other. Had I been a bit more alive to the situation, I'd have seen the special offer and paid 80p less - half of this with a half of the Norwich Bitter. 'Twos' they call it, 'mixed' in old language, just £3 a pint. A giant jug of Oakham Green Devil IPA was also calling 'Si, drink me!', but I doubt I'd have left without falling off my stool! Yes, I was perched on a high stool in the corner, and even in these circs, I felt like a pig in poop. I'd already been to their Canary pub and Brewery Tap, so I sort of knew what to expect from the decor, but this place was a pubby step up on both. The barman sees my GBG and asks if he can have a read .... "always interesting to read what they say about us!" he tells me, commenting that sometimes they get it wrong, something publicans up and down the country have mentioned to me re the GBG description! The fact he took an interest where no other staff member did all week said a lot. Dad texts, he's in Norwich ahead of schedule. If I could have my time back, I'd have asked him to walk a bit further and join me here, because as it turned out, the pubs that followed didn't compete. It felt like a throwback to the type of pub that got me into real ale pubs in those early 2002 days of using the Good Beer Guide.




Month End Stats


57 pubs ticked in a February record! I'm delighted. Especially as I'm cutting down on #ThirstyThursdays , proof that good progress can still be made.


My net total stands at 2360 (4264 gross) which is 52.44% completion.


More frustratingly, I'm still 104 pubs off the 2464 figure I reached before the great cross-ticking exercise in mid October. Last year, I broke even in early April, but this year, I think it'll be more like May/June time. It really was the worst churn!


March is a big month for Daddy BRAPA, he's with me all four Saturday's which must mean Hull City don't have many home games. Kent, Warwickshire & Lincs are all on the agenda. Two Thirsty Thursdays planned too, so hoping to keep chipping away at the East Midlands. It won't be a massive March though as I have no holidays planned, so a pub a day (31) is the aim.


I'll leave you with a 'bonus outtake' from Norfolk which didn't make the countdown. On my final night, I popped in to the bar at Table Table, Nelson Premier Inn, Norwich (I was replenishing my teas and coffees so I thought 'why not'). They had two ales on. I chose Doom Bar - not sure why! And hand on heart, I know you won't believe me, it was a better pint than many I had in Norwich, absolute fair dinkum god honest truth. It was only a scarfed canary and the giant '3' on the blackboard that upset me.



Go on Norwich CAMRA, put it in the GBG ahead of the dreadful Lollard's Pit and Walnut Tree Shades in 2024, I dare you!


See you all in my first March pub on Saturday.


Si




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