After the dynamic duo of 'First In Last Out' and 'Jenny Lind' (both safely on my BRAPA Pub of 2023 shortlist), I didn't think that our next pub could be so enjoyable, looking all seafrontie and foodie and 'popular' (yuck) but hey, let's give it a whirl .....
But Hastings was determined to prove to me that it could eclipse the likes of Tunbridge Wells, Worthing, & Rochester in recent SE pub town quality, and be put in the same bracket as Deal, Walmer and Ramsgate. The Dolphin (2475 / 4369) was another step in the direction of achieving that. Rock-a-Nore road gets the pub a bonus point alone, right up there with York's Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma Gate. An energetic, zippy and hard working pub, it was impossible not to get immersed in the feel good atmosphere. Of course, good beer helps and Kent Brewery, such a safe pair of hands, did a 'Coronation' brew better than any other I've tried over these past few weeks. Soon, a couple next to us are presented with ginormous plates of fish & chips, torture for Daddy BRAPA who eyes any plate of pub food as a 'missed opportunity'. In Part One, I'd observed Hastings unhealthy obsession with fish (if they had a football league team, visiting teams would almost certainly call them 'fish shaggers') and before this couple got stuck into their scran, they gently dissect the fish and give it a good scrutinise. Autopsy-tastic. Fascinating viewing. Top pub.
Of course, the GBG micropub had to put a dampener on things by not being open, but then again, they don't usually open on a Monday, and although I'd like to think Sunday hours were observed on a Bank Holiday Monday, it is always about 70/30 against in my experience, so I can't say I was surprised.
Besides, I'm in such a good mood by now, I felt no animosity. In fact, I'll welcome my return visit to Hastings.
And then it was a good seafront stride out in the direction of the station for our final Hastings tick ...
Maybe I'd been a bit harsh on the Crown in Part One now I think about it, as I found the White Rock Hotel, Hastings (2476 / 4370) decidedly unconvincing by comparison. It's not like anyone said it was going to be an old school pub and I could feel betrayed or anything, but to feel like you are drinking in a First Class Airport lounge is always underwhelming. Still, I'm always looking for the positives, and unless your name is the Colmore or Thornbridge (send me a 12 pack of Jaipur and I promise I'll say no more about it), I'm always willing to forgive and forget, so the sight of both Tunnocks caramel wafers and their teacakes on sale brought a smile back to my face, especially when Daddy B. buys us both one. But one sip of my Harvey's guest ale, yuck, not off, but certainly nowhere near GBG standard. Dad had, as luck would have it, chosen an opportune moment to order a coffee instead! I'd never allow myself such liberties on a ticking day. But my 'White Rock rollercoaster of emotions' which is probably overstating it, continues, when I realise St Leonard's on Sea (two GBG ticks) is just an additional 10-15 stroll up the prom. Hurrah! Daddy B. disappears for a long while, returning to tell me he'd got chatting to a top bloke from inferior seaside pub town, Scarborough. By which time (and I told you that 1984 ale in Jenny Lind was strong) I've totally forgotten St Leonard's is walkable, and Dad has to remind me!
And carefully placing one foot in front of the other and aiming to travel in a straight line, St Leonard's on Sea was indeed walkable in 10-15 minutes. Today's 6th pub was upon us .....
And it was a return to the earlier form of Hastings Old Town, here at the Nag's Head, St Leonard's on Sea (2477 / 4371). A spirited chatty landlady greets us, with good back up from a boisterous horde of blotchy, blobby, bright & bubbly buggers in and around the bar. It focused me. Nothing like being surrounded by drunker to specimens to feel your sobriety returning instantaneously. Someone has plonked a giant box of 100 pink and yellow squishy things on the bar. Rhubarb and custard sweets seems the most logical conclusion, but no, ear plugs! A giant multi-layered chocolate cake wheeled past us. It may have been sentient. I'm sure it smiled. Nothing was quite 'of this world' here. The guest ale, Project Babylon from Gun Brewery, was up there with pint of the day. It made it all the more astonishing when my Pub Tickers Master Spreadsheet revealed on the following day that this pub hasn't featured in a Good Beer Guide since 1993. Had Alexander Armstrong walked in, sat opposite me with the Countdown Conundrum clock, and asked me to decide whether this was a GBG regular within 30 seconds, I'd have been buzzing 'YES' after two seconds max. Now why Armstrong would be here at all, why he'd be presenting a personalised version of Countdown rather than Pointless, or why'd he'd have even removed the giant clock from the C4 studios and managed to carry it here just for the benefit of BRAPA, I really don't know. But Nag's Head is the sort of place where fantasy becomes reality.
Tempting as it was to get my other St Leonard's tick done, getting back into London so that we weren't in danger of missing our York bound train later on has to take priority. After all, I have to be back in Hastings for the non opening Micro, so may as well combine the two.
Once back in London, time was suddenly very much on our side and credit Daddy BRAPA here for really encouraging me to go for that 7th tick, I'd have probably retired straight to King's Cross for sausage roll, coffee and ESB as I'd been feeling a bit flakey pastry, but I'm glad we made the effort!
Impressive historic boxing themed corner pub, a stones throw from Waterloo unless you go out totally the wrong exit like we did, Ring, Southwark (2478 / 4372) has been on my hit list for far too long. Not any more! Typically busy bar boarded standing room only, this pub managed to raise itself above the mediocre London levels I always expect in two key respects. Firstly, the staff cared and were aware that having been served, we were roaming the floorspace unable to find a suitable point to settle, and called over that there was a little ledge over in the corner for us to lean on. I'd call that a win, not something you get a lot of down in these parts! Secondly, top ale. Hophead, a beer I've found increasingly average in recent years, and certainly not a patch on that magical first pint I had of it in Leytonstone 2002, was actually pretty darn good. I read about George Carpenter 'the Orchid Man', and then half an hour later, back in KX there was still time for a cheeky ESB, so what had been a fantastic day ended with nice flourish, or upper cut, or something. Don't even think this was a 'Punch' Tavern! (sorry).
I'll be back on Wednesday to tell you about my Hinckley debut, via a place called Enderby.
See you then, Si
