BRAPA is ..... BEERY 'CROSS THE MERSEY (Straddling the Lancs/Merseyside border Pt 2/2)
Uber number 3 of the day took me to the canal side outpost which is the Ship Inn Lathom (2638 / 4799). Lathom was a hard one to fathom (thanks!) because the village of Lathom just east of Westhead was nowhere near the pub. The GBG reckons Hoscar station is your best bet, but I'm calling bullshit on that, and on a sunnier day I think a walk from either Burscough would be preferable. Our latest Uber man, James Bernard Peter ("just call me Jim") is a sound bloke, and he tells me the pub is nicknamed the 'Blood Tub' due to black pudding shenanigans of the past. A real grower this place, initial thoughts are a bit chilly and barren but the bonhomie knows no bounds. Barman and barfly, both cracking lads, confirm the 'Blood Tub' legend, but tell me there's in fact two possible stories, though thankfully both involve Black Pudding. I tell them I buy Bury Black Pudding from Sainsbury's on a regular basis (cool story bro), and walk my Pendle Witches Brew (strong and light, with a hint of eye of newt) to a beautifully upholstered bench, 9/10 in the absence of a carpet. Staff smile at every passing opportunity, and a succession of dithery elderly lovelies keep popping over for a chat. Zimmer lady admires a Valentine's Day / Pancake Day / Half Term / Easter notice and remarks "always an event on these days!" to which I reply "NOT that we need an excuse for a drink, eh?" She shuffles off, her daughter in hot pursuit. The Uber's have been so efficient, it is nowhere near 4pm, the time my next pub opens, so I go for a half of the Laughing Gravy to tide me over. A truly excellent pub this, a match for the Prince Albert and Kicking Donkey, if not better.
Fourth and final Uber to take me back to Ormskirk station, and ITMA James Bernard Peter. He's glad to hear I've had some Blood Tub chat, and back at Ormskirk station, time to reflect with a crustless quiche and packet of sweet chilli bites.
It had been fun dicking about South Lancs in the snow, and a nice aperitif re what I hope is to come in the coming months (AKA : full Lancs completion for the first time ever!), but for now, eyes firmly on the prize, could we get Merseyside done with these two meanie opening hour pubs?
First stop, back to Maghull. Maghull PROPER this time, none of this Maghull North nonsense. The inevitable 20 minute walk, my phone dies just as I'm trying to work out the location, and with the snow now melted, I drop it in a puddle and a woman wonders why I'm scrambling around on the floor.
Still no sign of the pub. Maybe I could camp out in this coffee shop for bit, and ask while my phone recharges?
Maghull Cask Cafe (2639 / 4800)
Wait a second! This leafy coffee joint is heaving with blokes with bellies that you don't get from drinking frappe skinny lattes. Could it be? Handpumps galore. "Coffee place by day, pub by night!" exclaims our jocular host. Not truly accurate as it is 4pm, but 10/10 for the theatrical way he delivered the line. Very jolly rosy locals but standing room only and a hazy fuggy atmosphere, so I take my beautiful Piccadilly Porter walkies to the long slim back bar. Problem is I'm directly opposite the loo, and I'm pretty sure this is our old mate Big John from the Whitley Bay comments section breathing into the single cubicle. Oh no, stinks, I swiftly move all my stuff to a table even further down the room. Nice candle, mood lighting and smells a lot fresher down here, but away from any semblance of pub hubbub, which would be my one regret of this nicely cultivated secret squirrel coffee shop.
ONE TO GO! I could smell the finishing line now. And it smelt better than Big John from Whitley Bay.
A bus around the corner takes me back into the 'Pool, from where I trot down to Lime Street and after a coffee of my own (must've been the power of suggestion), I hop aboard the next available service to Whiston, which is halfway back to York if you think about it, sort of.
Now please forgive me for fearing the worst (well, second worst, worst would be a shut pub!) but as I see it tucked in a row of shops between pizza place and offie, with its inappropriate capitalisation (oh, Beer EnGin .... Beer Engine / Beer n' Gin, just got it!), I'm thinking in a moment of alliterative genius, 'more mediocre Merseyside misery' ....
But I'm wrong, very wrong as I'm not sure you can even have a mediocre level of misery, as we end on a high .....
Beer EnGin, Whiston (2640 / 4801)
Always important to complete a county with a cracker. It's still with a tinge of regret I recall how disappointing it was to complete Derbyshire a few years back with a pint of vinegar disguised as Bass, served by a bloke who'd stopped caring cos he was grieving a dead wife! But I'm taken under the wing from the start here, Leanne behind the bar is the star of the show and the locals really buy into the friendly warmth and positivity, and openness to strangers. Take that Botoxed Wizardora of Hoylake. Take that Trap n Hatch. Take that Norfolk which has nothing to do with Merseyside but I fancied a dig anyway. Leanne has to tell me cash only about 4 times before I get the message, and then (not that I need it) talks me into this wonderful North Riding Oatmeal Stout. She points to this cute dog, Flo, who's supping it for proof! Better than 'tasters' any day is dog recommendation. A jolly chap at the far end (hopefully not Big John again) points at Colin and shouts 'WHAAART'S THARR?' so I have to have a cross-pub Colin chat, always difficult! One of his mates, a Bridlington lover (good taste!), comes down cos I think he needs a wee but he must have a stronger bladder than me cos he's still chatting and jiggling 10 mins later. Leanne swoops in to do the Highlighting, which means three counties complete, and I've not done one final tick myself! Selfless you see. Daddy BRAPA and RetiredMartin are the other two if you wondered. And I'll be forever grateful how great this unassuming micropub was.
Of course the train out of Whiston was delayed 16 minutes, but not to worry, I got a good connection at NLW and then it was plain sailing home to York. Felt I should have a celebratory night cap, but made it a cup of tea cos I was starting work at 7:38am! Exact!
See you all next time, when we'll learn that A is for Altrincham.
Fantastic stuff, and taking a dig at Norfolk randomly is fine my me.
I ranted at Whiston 5 years ago, partly because it opened 2 hours later, partly because the service was wordless (but the other customers were great once they turned up),
Whiston itself, which I had 2 hours to explore, is an astonishing dump.
Thank you, I vaguely remember you being massively unimpressed. Glad I was a quick in and out of Whiston in the dark. (Don’t) Stick n Whist for new blog title?
Fantastic stuff, and taking a dig at Norfolk randomly is fine my me.
I ranted at Whiston 5 years ago, partly because it opened 2 hours later, partly because the service was wordless (but the other customers were great once they turned up),
Whiston itself, which I had 2 hours to explore, is an astonishing dump.
WISTFUL IN WHISTON – retiredmartin