6. Torbay Inn, Paignton
Paignton might be the only place all holiday where I could hand on heart say 'isn't Ashford in Kent pretty?' but what a world beater this pub is, tucked away near the 'Big Tree', a sort of carved out errm big tree roundabout feature you can sit inside and wait for a bus. Not a DEWTAP (Devon Evenings With The Amazing Pete) pub, I came here with the great man on the Sunday with Grecian Dave joining us later on. A traditional backstreeter, carpet, fruit machine and dartboard, this pub takes no prisoners and doesn't try too hard to impress, it lets its quality quietly shine through. The couple in charge are the biggest part of what makes it special, and soon Pete is talking aquarium fish breeding with the landlady whilst I learn what Exmouth has to offer in the way of fish n chips from the guv'nor. Such warm people. General Fairfax ticked this one off when he was doing the Civil War GBG, and talking of adept commanders in chief, Dave soon arrives with an air of nonchalance to enjoy my favourite pub in Paignton.
5. Railway, North Tawton
A unique ridiculous fever dream of a pub experience, DEWTAP never got more bizarre. Had the pub been in North Tawton village, it might've been more normal. But the road where the pub is nestled was closed off for resurfacing, and even Pete felt the amusingly named 'Cocktree Throat' was a lane too narrow to swallow for even his love of roads. I end up jumping out and moving a traffic cone so we can get through. The road workers don't swear, gesticulate or chase us, so we feign confidence and plough on. Even then, we nearly miss the sharp hidden pub turning. The original railway building is still in tact, in full glory, just opposite. Quite beautiful. The pub is stuck in a time warp, it is that busy we think there's an event on, alas no, the villagers are either stuck here due to roadworks or they just love a good knees up. The landlord is something else. I can't understand A WORD. Pete suspects he might be Cornish, turns out he isn't, but he says things like 'where ya to?' meaning 'where are you from?' and 'Aaaaandsome' in the most growly SW accent ever. Pete has to tell me what beer I've ordered. Locals act like we're invisible, certainly won't move when I need the loo. Oh the loo. In a Fritzl style basement, with bric a brac and spooky mirror. The loo is in a sort of 'tomb' inside that. I remarked it was pub of the week at the time, but in the cold light of day, this was an experience you probably couldn't replicate, and we joke that as we drove off, guv'nor and locals are probably peering out of window and in posh accents saying "oh I think they have gone, quick Jeeves pour me a sherry". "Very good Cynthia". Strangely brilliant.
4. Queens Arms, Brixham
Climbing Brixham's cruel hill away from the harbour, we were sat on the benches outside the pub patiently waiting for noon opening, but as so often happens in these circs, we're beaten to the bar by some nattily dressed white suited Catweazle and wife. An instant classic, one of those pubs where you turn the Google Pixel 8a lens to any angle and are not disappointed. So much going on. Our host is chatty, she accuses us of not being local, which of course we aren't, but no bother, she's from Wimbledon and you can't get further from Devon than that. Cute aquarium, as we'd see in the Torbay Inn, isn't it uncanny how many great pubs have aquariums. I could say the same about Tunnocks wafers and Nik Naks. Crisp range is top tier. Cider range astonishing. Made me feel bad for having the Euro themed ale, 'Coming Home'. Sorry Hanlon's, that didn't age well did it? Beer is nice though. Loos out through Wild West saloon doors. There's even a token Yorkshire couple out there having a drink. 'So much to see, so much to do, just don't drink our water, you might need a poo'. (potential Brixham slogan).
3. Albert Inn, Totnes
Last gasp redemption for Totnes, a town I'd found really irritating in terms of snooty poser people, silly hills, and two really weak GBG entries preceding this. But as the rain came down heavy and afternoon turns to evening, this Einstein themed side street gem was atmospheric perfection. Actually caught me off guard how smiley and welcoming the cute gaggle of bar folk are, won't even call them 'blockers' I'm THAT grateful. I'd just crossed a bridge over a river to get here, away from the station and other pubs so my theory is that I technically had left Totnes and the town lines just aren't very well defined! After thirty seconds sat near a draughty door and sulky school girl, I spy a hidden back bar which has the warmth, candles, and jolly rosy faced folk. They all crunch crisps in a somehow not annoying way, and there's a vague smell of lavender like my dead Grandma. Delightful pub room, as good as any I'd been in all week, probably because it doesn't lead anywhere. The beer once again is that amazing Shark Island Stout I'd just had in Buckfastleigh, and the brewery is out the back of this pub down the same corridor as the loos. What a find! I then got stuck in a monsoon walking back to the station and my phone cable snapped. The yin and yang of pub ticking.
2. Pony & Trap, Cullompton
Driven here by my crazy new mates Samuel and Phil/Pete/Paul from Butterleigh, I'm surprised to find Cullompton a proper functioning town and not just a couple of farmhouses (had same surprise at Ashburton and Otter St Mary), and with the feel good factor sky high, to find a mustard-walled, Bass-forward freehouse of such quality, and probably the friendliest pub of my entire holiday was just the cherry on top of my Saturday afternoon cake. I've been warned the guv'nor is a 'funny little cantankerous chap' but although it is mainly the landlady we chat to, he seems ok to me, especially as he 'drinks Bass and nothing else so no surprise it is good' when I remark on how high the beer quality standard is. Despite my new mates, I get talking to two gorgeous old boys who love the BRAPA concept. One loves Hampshire weirdly, and even tells me off for not highlighting Flower Pots brewery in Cheriton. I explain I don't highlight breweries, but because I've been to the pub, he tells me I'm a fool for not doing so. I later hear them chatting to each other "what a great hobby .... I wish we'd thought to do this!" I tell them it is never too late to start, though I can't imagine them galivanting up to Kyle of Lochalsh any time soon. Naomi and Tom arrive to 'bring the party', and then we had that awkward bit where Sam rang his Mum to lie so P*** would reluctantly drive me to Silverton, but it didn't detract from an amazing experience. And RetiredMartin's fave Devon pub too, if you need any more proof.
Rugglestone Inn, Widecombe-in-the-Moor
Driving over bleak but beautiful Dartmoor (mind the sheep!) for one final DEWTAP pub to bring our countdown to a close, and what a magical setting and sunset. Pete had a dreadful time last time he had a Widecombe pub crawl, and kept going to Ashburton instead, but then again, he'd never found this one. Just how many pubs are there round here? All our Christmasses had come at once as a Devil's Dyke Ruby Red Porter is poured from the barrel, beer of the week contender, from West Sussex which might sound random, but the pub has links to it. The pub is a 'Dartmoor Best Of', but perhaps what most impresses me is the outdoor loos which are the beating of most pubs alone in their separate stone building. Although we've taken a seating position, everyone is soon chatting at us. One bloke wants to talk the Black Bull in Escrick near York, but I didn't come here to talk scummy Autovac dining hell 2002, but he's impressed I've heard of it anyway. Not much else to say other than if you love pubs, you've got to come here. If I had a Top 10 best BRAPA ever, this would surely be in it! I wonder at what percentage of Guide completion I should start trying to list my faves? Incredible must visit.
So there we go. Huge thanks to Pete. I'm already excited about next summer, when I aim to tackle CRUEL North Devon and I'll have to get down to Plymouth for a day or two which is potentially even crueller.
Oh, and no doubt there'll be newbies in some of these places I thought I'd seen the back of. Predict Paignton, Totnes and Exmouth just to taunt me. And a new micro in Hennock called 'Howl at the Dimpsy Moon'.
Cornwall took me four stabs to get anywhere close, so I'm not expecting full completion just yet. My reward will be a Somerset debut!
Thanks for reading, Si
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